January 13th - 14th, 2009

We hitched a ride from Estancia Harberton with two tourists from England. One of them was the hottest 50 year old woman I have ever seen. Things got complicated with getting to Rio Grande and we had to spend another night in Ushuaia.

We didn´t want to spend the next couple days waiting for Helgi in Ushuaia, so we decided to go to the small town of Tolhuin the next day, which was halfway to Rio Grande. Tolhuin is a small town with nothing except a really great bakery, a bakery that has tucans and parrots. It´s in the middle of a tundran landscape, surrounded by dense green forests, but the bakery has tropical birds. Brilliant.

We were going to sleep by the lake but it was far and the weather was cold so we just walked around the town for a while looking for a place to pitch our tent. Tolhuin also has the largest collection of annoying stray dogs in the world that will not hesitate to bug the shit out of you if you walk through it´s gravel roads. Luckily we found an open field, walked into it where there was tree coverage and set up camp for the night. The grove we stayed in was full of moss that hung off the trees which we aptly named "tree beard" and made a great fire starter. We slept for free in our temporary homes and packed up the next morning to move on again.