January 10th, 2009

It was time to get the fuck out of Ushuaia.

We packed up our things and found a cheap ride up to Valle de Lobos. Gato, the owner was a pretty big name in these parts, being the first Argentine to finish the Alaskan Iditarod dog sled race. Valle de Lobos is where he trains his 84 Alaskan sled dogs year round. Gato is a man. He wears overalls, chops wood and eats meat. He will crush your hand with his handshake and grows a beard that makes Sam Beam look like a pre-pubescent boy.

He allowed us to stay on and around his property free of charge so we set up in a small wooden, dirt floored refuge with a giant iron oven in the center.

Close to the refuge was a trail that led to the Laguna Esmeralda. We hit the trail around 1 pm. It was a short hike and after going through a forest we came to a marshy tundra landscape covered in a red colored moss that gave way under your feet like a memory foam mattress. Reaching a crest in the landscape we came upon the turquoise colored lake that seemed more fitting for a Caribbean landscape than the southern pole. The lake is made from fresh water runoff from the glacier in the surrounding mountains. Needless to say the water is frigid. That didn´t stop my little blonde icelander from swimming in it to the amusement of all the Argentines.














We cooked over fires and slept in the dirt. We passed the hours playing guitars, harmonicas, melodicas and mouth harps huddled over the flames. We did little and talked even less. The life is simple and and sweet.

Did you know you can clean pots with dirt?